The Location
The Lizard peninsular is the very last bit of undiscovered Cornwall. Almost completely surrounded by water and way off the main route through to Lands End it has a massive coast line and beautiful empty countryside. Let the ill-advised continue their annual pilgrimage to overrun and over priced resorts and instead come to the overlooked and unspoiled treasure that is the Lizard.
This quiet picturesque area does not immediately belie her fascinating history. For centuries smugglers operated here and have left behind much evidence of their illicit trade. Many of the old cottages in Coverack have secret sellers where they hid the contraband. The Lizard also has a close association with pirates. At nearby Kennack Cove, the infamous buccaneer Avery is said to have buried his treasure.
The coast is littered with ship wrecks. All the pubs have scenes of dramatic rescues. Indeed how could we forget our history with so many Coves named after the ships dashed upon them, or the treasure to be found on them such as Dollar Cove.
It was here at Poldhu Cove that Marconi changed the world with his first transatlantic radio message and made the peninsular an essential communications link to the rest of the world – a legacy retained by the Goonhilly Earth Station (a satellite station with enormous radio dishes that you can now visit).
At the top of the Lizard lies Helston, a small friendly town famous as the home of the Furry Dance celebrated on Flora Day, and great for food shopping with small independent shops still trading. Not yet crushed out of business by the onslaught of supermarkets.
For river lovers, the Helford is accessed via roads of leafy tunnels. There are numerous tree lined creeks and inlets including Frenchman’s Creak, where Daphne du Maurier came on her honeymoon to find inspiration for her tale of smuggling and romance. Rent a boat from St Anthony in Menange and explore this romantic idle, or dig for cockles and cook them on her shores.